Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Nembrala, Roti

September 6, 2007
coordinates 10.52.980S,122.49.121E
Nembrala, Roti East Nusa Tenggara

We have found a little piece of heaven here in Indonesia. The absolute opposite to Kupang in a little anchorage called Nembrala on the island of Roti. After a most pleasant overnight sail from Kupang we drifted into the anchorage to find our pals on Luna and Pelikaan holding our place here. Of course they were already out surfing on one of 3 breaks that would keep us entertained for the next week. We dropped the hook and were out on our boards before the boat had settled. The swell was up and
all 3 breaks were going off consistently so you had your choice of sessions, sunrise to sunset. Everyone had a great time and at the very least got some great exercise.

Shore side was the next surprise. The town was more developed than we had imagined with a paved road but still remote, clean and quiet. Most homes consist of a surprisingly large concrete building with a few rooms and lovely paned windows and many smaller thatched huts behind. The bathrooms or waysays often have a large tub of water that is only used by scooping out the water with a cup and pouring it over yourself for a shower or down the toilet. Many of the homes here are also "losemen" or
homestays like a hostel and for only $3-5/day you will be well cared for and 3 warm meals. Goats and pigs walk freely about the town and though we could never tell, I am sure the owners know who belongs to whom. Many homes also make crafts such as jewelry and ikat, a hand woven cloth where each strand of thread is dyed first and then the design woven into place. We did quickly discover that they have a sales technique we hadn't yet encountered. They simply board your boat ready or not. They
are always very pleasant and happy to just sit and stay a while, even if you are not purchasing. Happy to go eventually and never seemingly offended. The first true Indonesian phrase we have learned though is Thank You, I Don't Want It - say it with me, "Terima kasih, Tidak mau" - very good!

The only true noise to be heard around the island is the "tuk tuk tuk" sound that their colorful and diverse fishing vessels make as they pass by morning and night. They head out each evening to begin their fishing and "tuk tuk tuk" back in each morning with the sun for some sleep. The smaller vessels are a marvel at how they even float first for being so narrow and tippy looking, secondly for holding so many men. How they maneuver and fish is a wonder. The larger vessels are a combination of
gigantic outriggers held together with a weave of lines that could equal any suspension bridge. Despite all this fishing going on though, we never saw any fish to eat at the market aside from the piles of dried sardines.

What they do have on shore are seaweed farms. Low lying mesh fences staked into the grounds like a garden that sit under water in everything but the lowest tides. They grow this plump twig like sea weed that they collect daily. As soon as high tide turns to head out the women are out there to collect pieces that start to wash up to shore. As low tide emerges, they spend hours of bent over back breaking work collecting this green crop and placing it into 2 large mesh bags that they then carry
over their shoulders with a long stick, yoke style. Once it is cleaned up, it is laid out to dry on large tables of palm leaves. For their efforts, they receive 15,000 rupiah per kilogram. That is less than $2.00 a bag for you and me at home. Their water is retrieved in much the same fashion from fresh water wells around the island, double bucket yoke style. I mention this because this is the woman's job around here. Never did we see men carrying either. All this back breaking work leads to
lot of sweet little old women hunched over and in a fair amount of pain we imagine. Well if Vanuatu and Fiji had their kava to forget their woes and ease their pains, Indonesia has their betel nut.

Evident by their red stained lips, teeth and gums, betel nut, or sirih pinang is a combination of 3 parts of the betel palm tree. The green stalk looks remotely like a limp green bean with a funny texture, the nut looks like a tiny immature coconut seed and the lime, a white powdery substance. Combine all three in your mouth often with a bit of shredded looking tobacco, chew like a mad man and you will eventually have a mild stimulant like effect of nicotine, and a mouth full of red spit, which
of course ends up on the ground. Watch where you step. The market in town holds as many piles of this for sale as any other product or produce available.

Two perfect weeks quickly passed right under our noses here in this little paradise. The kids all enjoyed afternoons of body surfing and sand castle building. They even managed to get the local kids to finally break down and join them. Always eager for a photo opportunity they were a little more hesitant to actually join in the play. The adults enjoyed the occasional drink at the local hut on shore to watch the sun set. We placed our orders for fresh bread and somewhat begrudgingly pulled anchor
to find our next adventure. We are all heading north to the islands of Rinca and Komodo, as the name suggests, in search of dragons. We'll let you know what we find.
until next time,
Selamat tinggal,
your crew on Ohana Kai


Anonymous said...

Referring to "Waysays" in this post.
It is actually WC (WeeCee) meaning water closet. (WC)

Yulie Hangge said...

It's great place Yeah!!!, I'm looking forward to reading about your coming post on your voyaging. it' Sounds fantastic to do sailing. Let me know if you I could join your boat someday. Have a nice trip and stay in Touch!

Warm Regards,
Yuli Hangge